Australia: Sydney

Despite being a country that's 44% desert, 16% kangaroo, 20% Paul Hogan and 20% bogan, Australia's biggest city offers up a lot of creature comforts that remind me a lot of Vancouver. Harbour? Check. Big park? Check. The mentally ill left to their own devices on the streets? Check. At least on the surface, spending three days in Sydney made me feel like I was home amongst familiar surroundings, food and people (granted, they all sounded kinda funny).

One thing that really characterized Sydney for me was the almost seamless juxtaposition of the old and the new. The city really celebrates its history, evident by the fact that modern skyscrapers stand side-by-side heritage buildings that date back more than a hundred years and that aren't being used to house heroin addicts. The city planners, however, seemed to have had an unhealthy fixation on a rather bulbous woman named Victoria whose statue appears every two or three blocks. I'm not exactly sure what her deal is, but perhaps she was the first great Aussie croc wrestler. I never did bother to ask.

In another instance of Sydney's pride in its storied past, the neighbourhood known as 'The Rocks' is not to be missed. Once a den of vice, corruption and extortion where one's wallet was never safe, 'The Rocks' has been transformed over the years into an upscale tourist mecca, full of shops, restaurants and bars whose prices seek to ensure that the district remains true to its roots. Nevertheless, it is a quaint neighbourhood and a handy place to pick up souvenirs (happy birthday, Dad!), and unlike Vancouver's Gastown, you don't have to worry about stepping into a puddle of someone's excrement.

The Rocks







(Above: Fine dining is abundant in 'The Rocks.' Here's Laura chowing down on some kangaroo pizza! Tastes like chicken! Just kidding. Tastes like kangaroo).

Sydney has no shortage of famous landmarks. Some of you may have heard of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera house. Here are some photos to jog your memory:






What most foreigners fail to realize, and I know I'm going out on a limb here in making this generalization, is that Sydney's greatest monument is not one that you'll see in the posters or travel brochures. I suppose by now they might have seen it on Oprah, but I have no idea as I don't have cable, nor do I watch Oprah, but she had just wrapped up her Sydney shoot when we were there. But the point is, Sydney's crown jewel, one that that has stood under the shadows of its two undeserving neighbours, has remained a relative secret to the outside world. Until now.

Located across the harbour from the Sydney Opera House and tucked away under the Harbour Bridge is none other than Luna Park! A place for expensive thrills and a misplaced sense of nostalgia! Where you can smell popcorn, but can't find any to buy! Where the hotdogs look like they came right out of a 1940s Pluto cartoon! In short, bliss!

Originally built in 1935, Luna Park maintains the air of an authentic 1930s carnival experience, with restored rides that espouse the wonders of science, the obligatory fun house and the crusty looking carnies running the rides (actually, they're just average Aussies, but I challenge you to tell the difference). The central gate that serves as the entrance to the park is a hybrid of art deco and a heroin-induced hallucination. I'm positive that had I been four years-old that I would have had nightmares for months afterwards of this monstrous visage swallowing me whole and not letting me locate or eat the popcorn that I could so clearly smell. As an 'adult,' I can appreciate it for what it is: a masterwork of twentieth century art and design.

(Note: I've just learned from the official Luna Park website that one can book their dream wedding at the park. Damn.)

Luna Park





The Beaches

If there's one thing the Aussies take seriously, apart from a cool glass of Foster's and shrimp on the barbie, is the beach. They have perfected the beach. They have taken what Nature created and improved it. Granted, coming from Singapore, any beach where you're actually able to swim in the water is a novelty beyond compare. If you're going to head to any beach in Sydney, it's got to be Bondi, famous for...well, I don't really know. But everyone knows about it. So there you go. There is a fantastic coastal walk that begins at Bondi Beach and heads south along the rocky cliffs and beaches that form the coastline. With the cool sea breeze and heaps of cafes along the way, its a good way to spend the day.

Bondi Beach



Tamarama Beach



To conclude, Sydney has resurrected my faith in the notion that a city can be a worthwhile place to explore. With a combination of good food, beer, historical sights, beer, iconic landmarks, beer and beaches, Sydney is definitely worth the visit.